#Celebrating 60's; Attempting to climb a 6000+ meters Himalayan Peak. Markha valley trek and Kang Yatse 2
#Celebrating 60's
Attempting to Climb a
6000+ meter Mountain Peak.
Markha valley trek
Kang Yatse 2
Recently I attempted to climb a 6000+ meter Himalayan peaks in Ladakh in Mid October / Autumn 2021.
Here is a account of the same.
“We don’t stop hiking because we grow old.
We grow old because we stop hiking.”
– Finis Mitchell
Day 1&2: Date 12/ 13 Oct 2021:
Flight from Mumbai to Leh and Acclimatization for high altitude.
What is High Altitude?
Altitude is defined on the following scale
High (8,000 - 12,000 feet [2,438 - 3,658 meters]),
Very High (12,000 - 18,000 feet [3,658 - 5,487 meters]), and
Extremely High (18,000+ feet [5,500+ meters]).
Most people can go up to 8,000 feet (2,438 meters) with minimal effect.
What Causes Altitude Illnesses
The concentration of oxygen at sea level is about 21% and the barometric pressure averages 760 mmHg. As altitude increases, the concentration remains the same but the number of oxygen molecules per breath is reduced. At 12,000 feet (3,658 meters) the barometric pressure is only 483 mmHg, so there are roughly 40% fewer oxygen molecules per breath. In order to properly oxygenate the body, your breathing rate (even while at rest) has to increase. This extra ventilation increases the oxygen content in the blood, but not to sea level concentrations. Since the amount of oxygen required for activity is the same, the body must adjust to having less oxygen. In addition the
high altitude and lower air pressure causes fluid to leak from the capillaries which can cause fluid build-up in both the lungs and the brain. Continuing to higher altitudes without proper acclimatization can lead to potentially serious, even life-threatening illnesses.
Acclimatization
The major cause of altitude illnesses is going too high too fast. Given time, your body can adapt to the decrease in oxygen molecules at a specific altitude. This process is known as acclimatization and generally takes 1-3 days at that altitude. For example, if you hike to 10,000 feet (3,048 meters), and spend several days at that altitude, your body acclimatizes to 10,000 feet (3,048 meters). If you climb to 12,000 feet (3,658 meters), your body has to acclimatize once again. A number of changes take place in the body to allow it to operate with decreased oxygen.
The depth of respiration increases.
The body produces more red blood cells to carry oxygen,
The body produces more of a particular enzyme erythropoietin that facilitates the release of oxygen from hemoglobin to the body tissues.
Prevention of Altitude Illnesses:
Prevention of altitude illnesses falls into two categories, proper acclimatization and preventive medications.
If possible, don't fly or drive to high altitude. Start below 10,000 feet (3,048 meters) and walk up.
If you do fly or drive, do not over-exert yourself or move higher for the first 24 hours.
If you go above 10,000 feet (3,048 meters), only increase your altitude by 1,000 feet (305 meters) per day and for every 3,000 feet (915 meters) of elevation gained, take a rest day.
"Climb High and Sleep low." This is the maxim used by climbers. You can climb more than 1,000 feet (305 meters) in a day as long as you come back down and sleep at a lower altitude.
If you begin to show symptoms of moderate altitude illness, don't go higher until symptoms decrease (& Don't go up until symptoms go down").
If symptoms increase, go down, down, down.
Stay properly hydrated. Acclimatization is often accompanied by fluid loss, so you need to drink lots of fluids to remain properly hydrated . Urine output should be copious and clear.
Take it easy; don't over-exert yourself when you first get up to altitude. Light activity during the day is better than sleeping.
Preventive Medications
Diamox (Acetazolamide) a diuretic minimizing the symptoms caused by poor oxygenation. Since it takes a while for Diamox to have an effect, it is advisable to start taking it 24 hours before you go to altitude and continue for at least five days at higher altitude.
Possible side effects include tingling of the lips and finger tips, blurring of vision, and alteration of taste. Since Diamox is a sulfonamide drug, people who are allergic to sulfa drugs should not take Diamox.
Our modifications:
1. We flew to Leh from Mumbai/ sea level and 35 C to a altitude
Of 3500 meters and 12 C.
2. Rest in afternoon
3. Evening walk to Shanti stupa altitude gain of 600 meters, sleep low
4. Second day drive to Khardung La on one of the highest motorable pass at altitude of 5340 meters,
sudden height gain of about 2000 meters/ temp of 0 C with wind chill.
5. Climbed high point of Khardung La through Moraine and Scree.. climbing height gain 700 meters..
Spent 2 hours there.
6. Drive back to Leh...slept low.
This rapid height gain of 2000 meters was possible because of the motorable road.
We did this to achieve faster acclimatization and reduce the total duration of the Expedition. We did not use Dimox or any medical supplement.
This is not a routine and definitely not a recommendation.
We had general well being and regular vital parameters post this acclimatization drill.
Day 3 October 14:
Trek to Leh palace and Drive to Sara Village:
Altitude 3490 meters
Day 4 October 15: Trek In the Markha Valley to Umling
Day 5 Oct 16, Trek to Chagutse Village
Distance 10:5 km
Amazing view of Tigu lakes (double lakes)
Day 6 oct 17 Trek to Base Camp
Day 7& 8 Oct 18 & 19 Stranded at Base Camp
It was very windy in the night.
The tents flapping as if it had got wings.
There was 6/7 inches of snowfall
We later came to know that there has been a cloud burst in the North West India region with rain fall at lower altitudes and snow and hail at higher.
Day 9 Oct 19/20, Summit Push
After 2 days of stormy snow there was a glimmer of sunshine.
We took this as a opportunity to summit that evening.
After early dinner we started our climb from the base camp at 10:00 pm
To mask or not to mask may be a question while running
But to Buff or not to Buff is not a question with the strong chilly winds hitting your face.
But this too was turning to a question.
The chilly winds of the cold terrain made my heart bleed, it was soon raining water but not from the eyes.
It was the nose throwing out Ganga Jamuna.
Usually glacier turn to river but here the river was turning into a glacier, freezing on the buff and making it difficult to breath. After all areas of the buff were utilised by constantly rotating it around the neck, I had nothing but to resort to using the age old habit of using a napkin to keep the Water at Bay and letting me breath.
Frozen Nosey caught on camera next day morning.
After a couple of hours, roping up, cramponing using ice axe...all technical jargons of mountaineering, we reached a elevation of about 6120 meters at about 10:10 am, 12 hrs after we started.
Here there is a ledge of stones where you can rest for some time before resuming your climb on the steep ice wall of about 150 meters.
But now the weather changed. There was a white out with bone chilling winds and snowfall, making it slippery and making it impossible to see anything.
"So near and yet so far."
No possibility of a summit without risking life...which was already sufficiently risked.
There is no Cheating in the mountains they say, it was Kang Yatse's way of saying:
"You are still few months short of 60, so you remain few meters short of the summit"
"Mummy Returns"
Tired & exhausted both physically and mentally it was now time to descent. No particular attention was given to food & fluids till now & this began to show it's effect now.
I could hardly keep my eyes open.
The legs were moving but the steps were wobbly. The belly was warm but the extremities were cold.
The inevitable end is near and it was time to bid farewell to near and dear ones I felt. One by one all were remembered. I could hardly stand. Two members of the support staff held and lead me to my tent at about 5 pm, 20 hrs after we started.
Wangtok gave me hot tea, Rigzin removed my heavy mountain shoes, Stanzin gave a warm message and I went into a slumber.
Day 10 Oct 21
The Ladakhi Horse
On getting up in the morning. I realized that all my final farewell wishes were futile and wasted,
I was still alive and kicking. May be I will have to preserve them for my next sojourn.
Considering the weather condition and the body's position it was not worth staying there and attempt another climb to Kang Yatse 1 or Dzo Jongo, the original plan to do a dual or triple summit back to back
(Ha, Ha Jokers, the mountains must be thinking)
So we decided to wind up the camp and return to Leh
This would involve a trek from Base Camp to Chokdo via Kongmaru La & drive to Leh
Having started the trek, within a km I realized that I may consider myself a endurance beast. But today I have to be a beast of a different kind. "Bhigi Bille" too is a beast. So I had to enroll the services of another beast the Ladakhi Horse.
Learnings from a Ladakhi Horse:
A Ladakhi Horse is a Endurance beast ...no it's a Endurance Monster.
While you are uncomfortable in the protection of the Tent, he is out there in the open, Maeeing away to glory in wind, snow or Sun.
A true Vegan he can eat any tiny shrub of grass available in the desert and sip on water obtained by licking his warm toungue on the ice.
Due to the rolling, uneven terrain
Riding a Ladakhi Horse is completely different from riding a arabian or racing horse.
The terrain was so uneven with sudden elevation and depression and narrow precipitous ledges and ridges that you had to mount and dismount many times.
1. The endurance monster also became breathless and halted multiple times when climbing steep elevations.
There is no shame in halting, catching up with your breath and continuing.
2. At times the stick and the curses of the shepherd worked,and at other times the gentle pampering of his neck
And soft pleading words like "Chal Beeta nahi tau Bapu thanda pad jayega" definitely worked
3. Negotiating the Ladakhi terrain is as complicated as negotiating the divestment of Air India.
It involves subtle art and skill of negotiations and understanding and having confidence in the ability of each participant.
You must hold the handles in front and back of the saddle. You sit upright slightly twisting your torso. Your thighs tightly gripping the abdomen of the horse.
Depending on whether going up or down you move your core in front or back lifting your glutes.
At times the horse would not budge and had to be coaxed by the carrot or stick approach.
At other times especially when crossing the rivers and streams, the general tendency of humans is to avoid the water and drift towards the land.
But the horse had no such issues.
No amount of coaxing carrot or stick would work. He would turn his head to the direction he wanted to go, which he felt safe and go only in that direction or not at all.
On steep elevation the general tendency of the fearful mounted is to pull on the Lagam /Rein
The horse would show his displeasure, maee as if saying, kya problem hai tera, chale raha hu na, chode meri lagam.
Riding a Ladakhi Horse is complete full body exercise.
In the Ladakhi terrain you have to mount and dismount multiple times making your forearm, shoulders biceps and triceps strong.
One thing I definitely became a expert after this expedition is in Mounting and Dismounting.
You have to grip his belly with your thighs making your thigh muscles strong.
The Ladakhi Horse is a ideal candidate for demonstration of Abdominal breathing for any Yogacharya, in tern helping you get a butterfly stretch to your thighs.
Due to the nature of the terrain you have to keep your core engaged moving it forward or backward and raise your glutes, making all this muscles strong.
On reaching Chakdo the waiting vehicle drove us to our Leh Hotel.
I preponed my flight booking and flew out of Altitude the next day.
Learnings:
1. Mountaineering is serious business and needs lot of physical and mental reserves.
2. Weather & mountains are unpredictable. But that doesn't mean you don't plan. On the contrary you need to plan for multiple scenarios.
3. Planning for Mt. Kilimanjaro where I was a trek leader of a Novice team was exhaustive. This time I was very laid back & took many things for granted.
4. Just to escape the Mumbai October heat you can't go for a mountaineering expedition, you have to prepare both physically and mentally.
5. Weather report and conditions should be first priority in planning.
Forecasted rains in Ladakh were not given importance when Rain is a rarity in Ladakh.
6. Acclamatization is a must and there can be no short cuts especially at my age.
The Team:
1. Keval Kaka ( Leader)
2. Mithil
3. Vijay Gada
4. Dr Parag Shah
5. LUPU (Guide)
Logistics provided by Samsara Expeditions
On the verge of 60 with 'One Foot in the G..ve'
I take this opportunity to thank all who have helped in contributing to my journey.
1. Marathon Running/ Striders for the Base building and Endurance training
2. Khan Sir / Jolly Gym for strength training
3. Mountaineering courses (AMC/ BMC) & all the Instructors of ABVIMAS (Atal Bihari Vajpayee Inst of Mount. & allied Sports, Manali) for the Technical training
4. My "Sons of the Mountain" for climbing with me shoulder to shoulder
5. My "Better Half" Dr Preeti Shah for whom I have been a "Bitter Half" for all the cooperation and tolerating my Idiosyncrasies.
Yaha toh Shuruwat hai.
Picture abhi bakhi hai Dosto.
Abhi tau maie Jawan hun.
Thank you for detailing the entire journey Parag uncle. I love the lessons that you've captured in the end. Your adventures give me hope and encouragement to try climbing this mountain.
ReplyDeleteThanks Suneet. Glad to know you found it informative
DeleteGreat sir
ReplyDeleteV good achievement
Congratulations to you all
Thanks
DeleteVery nice blog. I loved the wit and self-deprecating humour sprinkled throughout the write-up. Kept it interesting. It is indeed wonderful that you trek at these levels when nearing sixty. Many at your age do not even climb stairs... lol!
ReplyDeleteThanks for reading the post and appreciating the style.
DeleteVery informative...very encouraging. You have made a difference. There is a huge message for those who retire after 50...you have defied all and set a new goal ...and a new challenge for all of us. As doctor you made things easy..we have in you a new warrior.love you sir
ReplyDeleteThanks for reading the post. Your comments are highly appreciated.
DeleteBless you and your family
Dear Parag , congratulations for your achievements. You were successful as a surgeon and now as a trekker. Wish you all the best for future ventures.
ReplyDelete