Kalindikhal Trek: A story of Snow & Shit; Death & Mob

I recently did the KalindiKhaal Expedition between 22 May to 6 June 2023. 

 Set at an altitude of 5,947 meters, the Kalindikhal Pass on the base of Kalindi Peak, which is at an elevation of 6,102 meters, and surrounded by several other snow clad mountains is the world’s highest trekkable mountain pass. Kalindi Khal Trek is an extremely challenging expedition-style traverse of the Kalindi Khal Pass in spectacular Garhwal Himalayas connecting Gangotri and Badrinath. The route involves a trek over rough glaciers, rocky scree, and crevassed snowfields. At times we need to rope up and require the use of ice axes and crampons. Kalindi Khal trek takes you halfway round Garhwal from the Bhagirathi Valley to the Alaknanda Valley. The journey en route Kalindi Khal unfolds views of some of the highest and most majestic peaks of the Indian Himalayan range - Shivling at 6,543 m, Meru at 6,630 m, Kedar Dome at 6,808 m, Bhagirathi group at 6,856 m, Nilkantha at 6,506 m, Chandra Parvat at 6,728 m, Avalanche Peak at 6,413 m, Kamet at 7,756 m Mana at 7,272 m and Abi Gamin at 7,355 m. Finally a steep climb leads to dangerous glaciers, which are above 5,000 meters in height like the Suryala Bamak and Sweta. The trek to Kalindikhal Pass also covers some of the high altitude lakes of India, the Vasuki Tal at 4,800 meters approximately and Arwa Tal at 3,910 meters. The Kalindikhal Pass trek, which is one of the toughest treks in the Indian Himalayan belt, located in the Garhwal Himalaya, requires acclimatization and prior high altitude trekking experience. The Kalindikhal Pass trek commences from the Bhagirathi Valley, from an altitude of 3,048 meters at Gangotri, which is one of the major Hindu pilgrimage sites. From Gangotri the trail leads to Bhojbasa, which is at an elevation of 3,792 meters, cutting through a thick alpine bed dotted with wide range of Himalayan trees. Thereafter the trail snakes through the rocky terrain to reach Gaumukh at 3,890 meters. Gaumukh is the mouth of the Gangotri Glacier and the origin point of River Ganga. From Gaumukh the trail winds upward to Tapovan, one of the high altitude meadows at an elevation of 4,463 meters and is a picture perfect campsite with the Bhagirathi group of peaks at the backdrop with crisscrossed bubbling streams and dotted with wild flowers. Herds of Bharal (blue mountain goats) are a common sight from here on steep mountain edges. From Tapovan, the journey continues towards Vasuki Tal via Nandanvan, cutting through the glaciated tracks of Chaturangi and glimpse of Meru and Bhrigupanth. From Vasuki Tal the trail starts further strenuous as it steps on to the thick bed of snow and heads to Suralya Bamak at 5,480 meters followed by Sweta at 5,500 meters. Thereafter a climb to Kalindi Base and thence further upward climb to the summit of Kalindi. The downhill trail follows to Arwa Tal at 3,910 meters and thereafter leads off at Mana village via Ghastoli. The Kalindi Pass trekking tour later wheels to Badrinath. This trip is one of our most demanding treks suited to only those who want to join a reconnaissance style expedition. 

 The blog/story narration style is a mix of Humour in a situation of Tragedy. The aim is not to open an alternate career in storytelling but to maintain the interest of the readers till the end, make the story viral and bring about the desired changes in the infrastructure of trekking in India through the awareness and collective demand of Indian Trekkers. I have maintained the original ambitious itinerary of the Trekking agency and added the actual happenings of the day as a comment day wise. 

 Trek Itinerary 

 Day 01: DEHRADUN - UTTARKASHI – GANGOTRI Altitude: 10,000 ft (3,048 Mt.) Drive / Duration: 239km./10hrs. Accommodation Type: Guest House/Hotels Drive to Gangotri Early morning.check in hotel meets the all members and Guide and supporting staff and some brief about trek etc.Gangotri is the starting points for this trek. Here you will meet your trekking crew and porters. In the evening, you will witness the puja and aarti at Gangotri temple – one of the four sacred dhams for Hindu in the Himalayas. Overnight stay Hotel/Guest house. 

This schedule was as per the itinerary.

Day 02: GANGOTRI- BHOJBASA Altitude: 12,440 ft (3792 Mt.) Trek / Duration: 14km./7hrs. Accommodation Type: Camping The walk begins with gradual ascent through pine trees, alongside the roaring Bhagirathi River with towering cliffs on your left hand side. This trail keeps following the river and just short of Chirbasa, we will get the astonishing views of the Bhagirathi Peaks. Chirbasa, literally meaning “the home of the pine tree”, is situated at 3600 m. We reached our campsite surrounded by birch and pine trees. Overnight in tents & Dinner. 

This schedule was as per itinerary with a slight glitch at the beginning. On reaching the Gangotri National park check post the Forest official initially refused admission, reasoning that there is cloud cover with a forecast of rain. However in about 30 mts the cloud cover was blown away with the winds and now those who already had taken permit in advance were allowed to pass, but the newcomers who were yet to obtain permit were denied entry. As if the life of the latter was more precious than the preceding. Throughout the Expedition the weather judgment was based on hearsay and personal bias rather than any solid data input. 

Day 03 : BHOJBASA – GAUMUKH –NANDANVAN Altitude: 14,251 ft (4345 Mt.) Trek / Duration: 09 km./7hrs. Accommodation Type: Camping Early in the Morning enjoy the panoramic view of Bhagirathi group of peaks. After breakfast, trek to Gaumukh (3890mt), the source of the Ganges. Gaumukh is where the water of Ganga trickles down from the glaciers. The sages called it ‘Gaumukh’, because in the distant past, it probably appeared like a cow’s mouth. Explore the area and trek to Nandanvan. Overnight tent & Dinner.

Again the same weather story repeats, cloud cover, rain early morning so no movement. By 10 am it clears and is bright and sunny but now too late to move. We are still at Bhojbasa. 

Day 04: NANDANVAN – VASUKITAL Altitude: 16,006 ft (4880 Mt.) Trek / Duration: 07 km./5hrs. Accommodation Type: Camping Morning trek along with Chaturangi Glacier to reach Vasukital, a beautiful base for Mt Satopanth and Mt Vasukital Parbat with a small lake. The trek is steady upward. Arrive in 5-6 hours and overnight stay in tents. 

 Alas, Again the same weather story repeats, cloud cover, rain early morning so no movement. By 10 am it clears and is bright and sunny but now too late to move. We are still at Bhojbasa. Of the 14 member team, 5 from West Bengal decide for whatever reason ( will not be able to go beyond Vasukital under present conditions, even if go to pass won't be able to complete in scheduled time and return tickets already booked,?, whatever personal reason, they decide to abandon the expedition and return back to Gangotri next day morning. 

Day 05: REST & ACCLIMATIZE AT VASUKITAL Altitude: 17,975 ft (5410 Mt.) Trek / Duration: 07 km./6hrs. Accommodation Type: Camping Morning after breakfast start trek to Suraiaya Bamak (Khara Pathar) with packed lunch. Camping on Moraine. Overnight in Tents & Dinner. 

Fresh bright day, we 9 move forwards to Nandanvan and 5 move down to Gangotri. The trek is hard, especially negotiating The Morain of Gangotri Glacier, we reach Nandanvan in the late afternoon and camp. The weather was bright, clear and fully supportive. 

Day 06: VASUKITAL – KHARA PATHAR (Suralya Bamak) Altitude: 17,975 ft (5410 Mt.) Trek / Duration: 07 km./6hrs. Accommodation Type: Camping Morning after breakfast start trek to Suraiaya Bamak (Khara Pathar) with packed lunch. Camping on Moraine. Overnight in Tents & Dinner. 

Weather bright and sunny and we trekked to Vasukital. A tough trek with 2 vertical long walls of Glacier Moraine to be descended and later climbed some sections requiring ropes. A sojourn that most thought would never like to experience again, But....Alas.... Two trekkers from Hyderabad decide to turn back, they feel they are not prepared for the harsh terrain forwards.

 

Day 07: KHARA PATHAR – SWETA GLACIER Altitude: 18,040 ft (5500 Mt.) Trek / Duration: 07 km./5hrs. Accommodation Type: Camping Today’s walk is fairly hard on glaciers and moraine. We pass small lakes and camp just before the junction of the Sweta and Chaturangi glaciers.Overnight In tents & Dinner. 

Sunny day and we move to Khara pather. The trek is long, hard and through ankle to knee deep snow. Yes snow in May end... a rarity but weather erratic this year. Long walk through the snow makes the effort more strenuous for all. Even the lead guides (Dev ji, Bipin Rawat, Pravin) complain of exhaustion and mild Headache. Mind you, from Bhojbasa we are continuously moving and gaining height, without any acclimation rest, violating a major principle of Height gain.

Day 08: SWETA GLACIER – KALINDI KHAL BASE Altitude: 18,368 ft (5600 Mt.) Trek / Duration: 04 km./4hrs. Accommodation Type: Camping Trek through moraine and glacier keeping to the left side of the Chaturangi bamak following the beautiful Chandra Parvat to Kalindi Khal base at 5600mts. Kalindi top can be seen from the base.Overnight Tents & Dinner. 

The weather story repeats. Snowfall in the morning. By 9:00am clear sun. Some debate and we finally decide to move. Tough trek to Sweta Glacier. Continuous climb without rest seems to take a toll on some members. 

Day 09: KALINDI BASE – KALINDI PASS (5950 mt)- RAJPARAV Altitude: 19,516 ft (5950 Mt.) Trek / Duration: 12 km./8hrs. Accommodation Type: Camping Leaving early we climb up to the Kalindi pass (5950 mt.) walking on snow and ice. After spending some time taking in the breathtaking scenery of the snow capped peaks, views of Mt. Kamet (7756 m), Mt. Mana (7272 m), Abi Gamin (7355 m) and Mana Parbat (6797 m). If the weather is clear you get a view of the Tibetan plateau across the Mana Pass (6728 m), we begin a steep descent on more snow and ice to a nice camp by a stream at Rajparav.Overnight in Tents & Dinner.

Today we trek from Sweta Glacier to Kalindi Base, tough trek, long climb in the Moraine and especially made difficult by the snowfall and whiteout in the evening at the fag end of the trek.

Day 10: RAJPARAV – ARWATAL Altitude: 12,824 ft (3910 Mt.) Trek / Duration: 13 km./6hrs. Accommodation Type: Camping Morning after breakfast proceed your trek to reach Arwatal (3910 mt) 13 km from Rajparav. Overnight n tent & Dinner. 

In the night we are greeted with continuous snowfall, we realize later that it has been almost 1/2 feet of snowfall. Early in the morning I get up to answer the call of Nature. 

AND SHIT HAPPENS 

Unaware of the amount of snowfall in the night, i take a few steps out of the tent and go down hip dip in the snow suddenly. My sphincters relax involuntarily and I Shit in my pants. 

A BIG MISTAKE 

Having nothing much to do except shaking the tent to throw off the accumulating snow, I decide to clean up. Removing the trousers, the thermal layer and the underwear inside the tent, half lying and half sitting especially at an altitude of almost 6000 mts with sub zero temp is a gigantic task. Each movement requires ten times the effort and took me almost an hour to finish. All these factors combined with the alcohol from the wet wipes now produce HypoThermia. My body starts shivering vigorously, my oxygen saturation drops to 38 ( normal 90 to 100, at that altitude about 70). The only solution now for me is to descend to a lower altitude, but in this weather and the terrain from where we came...no way. Some hot soup, tea and food help in reducing the shivering but oxygen saturation remains in the 30s throughout the day and night. Bipin Rawat the guide complained of some fever, was examined by a doctor and given tablets, he is resting inside the camp the whole day. 

Day 11: ARWATAL – GHASTOLI Altitude: 12,450 ft (3796Mt.) Trek / Duration: 15 km./6hrs. Accommodation Type: Camping The walk is through boulders and moraine terrain as we quickly descend to the treeline and then through jungles to camp in the village of Ghastoli back to civilization. Overnight Tents & Dinner. 

We are still at Kalindi base, my oxygen saturation is still in the 30s and there is still heavy snowfall. Around 3:00 am I am called upon to inquire if I have some supplementary/ can of oxygen, which I don't.

 Day 12: TREK GASTOLI TO BADRINATH AND DRIVE TO JOSHIMATH Altitude: 9,971 ft (3040 Mt.) Trek/drive / Duration: 18 km/45km./8hrs. Accommodation Type: Hotel/Guest House As we continue our gradual descent downwards, the terrain changes further and the route is now a dirt road which is under contraction and follows the River Saraswati down stream to Mana and Badrinath. If we are lucky, we can hike an army truck as they come often to drop some food supplies at the army camp at Ghastoli and if not it is a good walk until we meet our awaiting vehicles at Mana to drive us to Badrinath for hot lunch and to visit the famous temple there. Badrinath is one of the four dhams of the Hindu devotees and you are sure to get a feel of the high of the devotion of the pilgrims that make their way here in hordes. Just above Badrinath is the spectacular conical Mt. Neelkanth (6596 Meters), literally meaning “Blue Throat” one of the 1008 names of Lord Shiva. Later we drive to Joshimath for Overnight stay in a hotel.

Early morning at sunrise around 5:30 pm at Kalindi Base we all are called to the kitchen Tent for a Briefing. We are told that Bipin Rawat the guide is no more. 

It's still snowing heavily and it's futile to proceed higher and further esp with the emotional and moral state that we are in. Desending down would be tougher and longer, we were at the fag end of the trek with just two days of movement required. Going back to Gangotri would be hard too as now we were short of Ration, food and cooking Gas.

Nevertheless we decide to move down retracing our steps.

This would encounter following problems

1. Distance and days would be longer

2. We may have to skip camps jumping down to lower camp, what was taking 6/7 hours per day of trekking would now be 10/12 hours per day of walking

3. Food and fuel would be restricted. Only breakfast and dinner would be served, even water would be restricted as fuel has to be used to melt the ice/ snow which although abundant and all around could not be used as such

4. Due to heavy snowfall ( min. Knee deep to hip deep) terrain which was all glacial moraine and Cravases was not visible, we would have to drop our feet in the depressions in snow left behind by the first party moving.

The body of Mr. Bipin Rawat was respectfully zipped in the sleeping bag and kept inside a bright red tent for easy identification later.

The Trek guide Dev ji took the lead. He and a HAP (High altitude porter) Bharat started early with two purposes

1. To reach Bhojbasa as fast as possible, from where messages about incidence occurred and evacuation of the body could be passed to the civilization.

2. To open the Route in the deep snow for others of the team to follow.

 

Thus while our expedition was to end today as per the original itinerary, in fact we would be beginning our descent down today, that is had completed half the journey.

 Usually going down a mountain is the easiest task. But it was turning out to be the most difficult.

Knee deep snow, tough terrain, long glacial walls to climb and descend was all taking the toll. With minimum water and breakfast after 8/9 hours of trekking I hardly had any energy left.

However, special thanks to a few HAPs (High Altitude Porters) whom I have rechristened as HABs were always helpful. After reaching base and setting camp they would prepare some hot soup, and bring it in  a Thermos back on the trek for me in the hope that I get some strength to reach base. When this too was ineffective and it was turning dark they would lift me on their back….turn by turn…like Vikram carried Baital. Along the way dispensing the wise words. “ Sir ab iss ummar mein no expedition next year”. I would mutter “next year kau chhod, aj kye rate tau jeena dae”

The same wise words are told to me by my blood sons but they would not carry me on their back. Thank you Anil and Bharat for helping me in distress. Hence I rename you from Porters to Baitals / HABs / High altitude Baital dispensing wisdom and load.

After three days of hard trekking and skipping camps we finally reached Nanadanvan. On this third day I finally felt confident that I was trekking in descent time and will be able to cross the Gangotri glacier on the way to Bhojbasa and reach by daytime without the assistance of the HABs.

 

But Destiny/ Shiva/ Gangotri all had different thoughts. The moment I felt confident it started snowing heavily. There was a white out. The route of the Gangotri glacier, the moraine, the Cravases, all had changed in  a matter of 10 days.

Tourists visiting Gaumukh complain that they hardly see the Gaumukh.  Well today was a blessed day when I saw the Sprout of the Gangotri glacier / Gaumukh not once but twice. I also discovered three GauriKunds instead of one. Such was the mental state and the weather condition that the winds came howling behind my jacket, flapping it into words. “Khabardar jau fir sae aya eedhar”; “leave the Glaciers alone.”

It was the longest Trek day of mine and I reached Bhojbasa in the night.

Next day, 5th June was the last day of the Trek.. from Bhojbasa to Gangotri town.

While we were excited to finish the Trek and reach Civilization, there was information that a Mob of relatives and villagers of Bipin ji Rawat had collected at the Gangotri Forest check post. They were demanding that they would not allow any one from the team ( clients, guides, Porters…all) to pass out until we hand over the body of Bipin ji. There reasoning

1. How could a young men who had done Kalindi more than five times die at Kalindi Base

2. If we could trek back saving all the costly equipment, why could we not bring the body along

3. There must have been some foul play, some fight that lead to Bipins death

4. “ We have given you Bipin for the expedition. We want him back; alive or dead but the same physical body. ( I sincerely hope my wife doesn't know about this. Otherwise she would not allow me in the House, demanding, “ I had given My husband a Goora with Bheega Hooth for the expedition; what has come back is a dark sun burnt marasmic individual with cracked lips. I won't accept him.”  

   
   

   
   

   

5. In Spite of bad weather while few clients returned back some clients insisted on continuing Trekking leading to stress and death of the leader.

Here I was trying to escape the nuisances of the civilized world especially the health care sector and here in the remote Himalayas I was facing the same problem again.

We were debating what to do next. Whether to trek to Gangotri? Find some shortcuts etc.

I finally decided that Direct proactive approach is the right approach rather than one of stealth especially when we have nothing to hide.

I and a young fellow trekker, Dr Ankur decided to move ahead. So disturbed was I that I decided to march Barefoot, but considering the Terrain, better sense prevailed and I did the next best thing ... .the Milind Soman Barefoot…. I trekked in my slippers/ Crocs.

On reaching the Gangoti Forest Check post we proactively reported to the post chief.

A detailed grilling ensured from the officials and the relatives collected there.

Our answers:

1. Unseasonal heavy snowfall unheard in the past summers caused hypothermia and breathing problems to most.

2. There was no Weather report throughout, only Cloud cover was the guide. We marched only after it turned sunny

3. Equipment ( Tents/ Kitchenware etc) was brought down, not because it was costly but because it was required for the survival of the members of the team. If the body was brought along, it would have been brought down disrespectfully, being dragged, kicked and dumped. It would have resulted in injuries and mutilation, confusing the cause of death.

4. No clients insisted or went against the wishes of the Guides

5. As regards foul play / fight within Guides the other Guide, Devji who was in the same Tent not only rushed down to pass the message of death in  a record two and a half days, he also saved the life of other team members by opening the route in deep snow.

It's like killing the Messenger, so what if the messenger is conveying the message of death.

In the Grecco Roman times 490 BC, Pheidippides, a Greek messenger  is supposed to have run from Marathon to Athens, a distance of about 40 kms to brring the news of the Athenian victory over the Persians and then expired. We celebrate his feast by organizing marathon events all over the world, and here Devji has run more distance, more elevation in more adverse conditions to pass on the message of death of his colleague and seek help. And instead of recognizing him we are condemning him. 

A public Declaration here

In my future endeavours, in case I die, please do not attempt to bring my mortal remains down. Isn't it that to escape the chaoes of the modern civilization I am trekking in the remote Himalayas to find eternal peace. Now that I have found it, why disturb it. A few selfies may be taken for the benefit of the near and dear ones, to show, " Ek tha Parag Shah"

All of us need justice and solutions. However we need to set our priorities and judgment right.

We are so influenced by Bollywood and their Heroes that we can not look beyond instant justice delivered by holding the collar of the opposition and delivering a few blows.  

Why should it take almost three days just to deliver a message that a colleague is no more, in this age of instant communication?

The first step in solving problem is recognising that there is one.

Gangotri Reserve and especially Bhojbasa is  Hot spot of activity, Pilgrims, Tourists, Trekkers and Mountaineers are always there. Trekking to Gaumukh- Tapovan, NandanVan, Vasuki tal and Kalindi. Shivling, Kedar dome, Bhagirathi,Satopanth and many other peaks are approached and submitted from here.   There is a almost permanent base of NDRF ( National Disaster Relief Force) and SDRF ( State Disaster Relief Force) whose teams with all the latest equipment and Gear is Summiting a peak or the other. There is no scarcity of resources, only scarcity of intent.

1. Why cant each team have a High Frequency Radio transmitter, communicating daily to the command at Bhojbasa weather all OK or not and giving their position of the day.

2. Instead of only summiting, why doesn't the NDRF, SDRF conduct drills of evacuation of the stranded and mark out sites for Heli landing.  No such sites/ protocols were visible.

If a land locked poor country like Nepal, can boast of a Heli Rescue within ⅗ minutes; its a shame that we the rocket/ space/ telecom giant need 3 days just to pass on a message of death.

It was a traumatic hard experience, equally hard is typing it down.

I have done it not to malign anyone but to bring facts to the notice so that there is a collective effort to improve the trekking and mountaineering scene in India.

Subsequently after a few days this is how Bipinjis mortal body was brought down.